Preparing a Wooden Jack Plane | Paul Sellers

Preparing a Wooden Jack Plane | Paul Sellers

good day I sometimes get asked
periodically often enough for me to think it’s worth doing a video for about
these wooden planes I think sometimes we lose sight of the fact that these worked
for three or four hundred years and they’ve worked for centuries in
actuality and so much longer than we appreciate I think they go back way into
previous millennia and I think we tend to dismiss them and think they’re
old-fashioned they didn’t work that well they’re not as good as modern metal
planes when in actuality they work really well and they never stopped
working well they just didn’t keep pace with the industrializing of our modern
world we needed more products to sell engineers came up with new models
Stanley Leonard barely came out with the number four plane the bench plane series
and before we knew it these were being abandoned and left alone but in
actuality they work really well much better than you would expect so I’m
wondering if we shouldn’t just introduce these because even if everybody on the
woodworking site went out and bought these planes on eBay from flea markets
secondhand stores or whatever we could never exhaust the supply of these planes
they are out there they’re resting on shelves in cellars and places like that
and they’re always going to be cycled through just like the number four plane
there are enough number four planes made by stanley and record out there to last
us for another 100 200 years they’ll just keep being cycled through cycle
through and this is the same thing so here I’ve got a couple of planes
restoration for this one is basically the same as this one what you have on
these these planes is a wedge that holds the blade in the plane and you’ve got a
cap iron and a an iron a wedge and the main body and then what I’m looking for
when I’m looking a secondhand plane of this type where
it’s a wooden bodied plane I’m looking for a cap iron and I’m looking for a main
iron and I don’t want just the iron alone which does work but not as well as
it does with this cap iron sometimes called a chip breaker and this really is
a diverter it diverts to shaving up and separates it from the main body of what
is your planing and up through the throat of the plane so that’s what I’m
looking for in either of these planes is you can get longer planes you can get
shorter planes you can get them a quarter of their or a third this size
for violin making the principles of adjusting them setting them and
restoring them is basically the same so we’re going to work on this one here and
what I’m going to do is separate the plane iron from the body of the plane
because we’re basically dealing with two key areas to this plane functioning well
the dirt on here doesn’t really matter the patina doesn’t really matter it
makes no difference so we’re going to separate the iron out again there are a
couple of places that you hit you can see there’s some indents in here and
we’ll usually use steel hammers not rubber hammers or nylon hammers and then
you’ll usually see some hammer marks in the end here there are two places that
shock the wedge from it’s wedged position holding the iron solidly in
place so we either hit here or we hit here and both of those shock the plane
in the same direction so this wedge is shocked out in this direction because
this is about 44 degrees bedded in the plane anywhere up to 50 degrees so if we
hit here or here it’s going to jerk that iron out from there so first of all I’m
going to hit here with the soft face of my hammer because I’ve got the weight I
strike here and that should loosen it but sometimes it won’t if it won’t I’ll
go to the fore part here and I hit here and that’s starting to loosen the wedge
this hasn’t been out in a long time you can see it’s coming loose here can
you see I’ve already moved this wedge this wedge has been in for a long time
but it’s already coming out it’s about quarter of an inch so just keep
persevering strike and keep striking you can see it’s coming loose now it is it
is loose but it’s not loose enough for me to pull there you go so there I’ve
got my iron cap iron and my wedge you can see the clear wood here is where it’s
never seen sunlight in 50 years this has gone dark just through the sunlight
hitting it oxidation so you can see inside here you can see all the detailed
work of the craftsmen that made it and then the main area I’m concerned with
now is this sole the handle seems to be solid here’s a couple of handles that
came off a couple of other planes that I worked on and you can see here there’s a
nail through here so this came loose this one had a screw through here so
this one came loose and they do turn loose sometimes what the craftsman
should have done was was boiled up some animal hide glue and reseated this back
in the opening left it overnight and came about the next day instead of using the
screw or worse still just a nail but you can see on the side here I think can you
see here there’s a big mass of glue on each side a good millimeter of glue on
each side here which means this didn’t really fit into the recess too well but
there’s something about planes that fascinate me and one of them is this can
you see how this heel of the plane isn’t Square to the salt to the underside of
it it’s actually angled up here and this is also angled here so that means when
this went into the plane the heel went in first and this drop down and it gave
a nice tight fit and then that was glued in place and it stayed there we’re not
talking about restoration but you can see here this has been damaged
probably dropped I would take a piece of wood like this cut a commensurate angle
to it plane this off glue this on and reshape it with the rest of the handle
so that’s that just to give you a little bit of background to these handles this
has got these two were closed handles what we call closed handles you can see
these are two different makers probably making planes at a similar time but when
you see these lines in this arc on here and this pot head is really very little
difference between them that’s very typical looking side through the hole
and you can see the holes aligned too so these were custom fit to the hand they
fit beautifully in my hand this one is a little small for my hand but it does
work I’ve got gloves on here just because I’m going to clean off a little
bit of the dirt from this and this is what I would recommend just take some
boiled linseed oil and some steel wool and just go over the dirty areas if it
is a buildup of grease and just clean out some of this like this until you’ve
got down to some decent wood surface just take that off and then wipe this
excess oil off and that’s all I would do to this handle and this main body
of the plane just clean up it’ll just clean out the dirty grunge that’s been
building up in there one thing I want to say if you’re doing it using the boil linseed oil just clean off the excess and then soak it in water in a tub of water
make sure you do that don’t leave it around the shop for more than a very
short time but already I can see the wood back through the surface without
taking any of the patina out or ruining the value of the plane and this plane is
now ready for me to work on but doing the whole body I’m not this is not what
I’m about today the main body the main part I want to talk about is getting the
sole flat and then sharpening the iron and setting it up to work so I just have
a glass jar here I’m going to stick my linseed oil in here I’m gonna stick my steel wool in there set that aside for now so we’ve not got any
danger points because that spontaneous combustion is very real and I’ve seen it
happen and you don’t want it to happen in your shop so first off we’re going to
take a look at this sole and what I’m going to do is just take a straightedge
I’ve got my steel rule here it’s a rebel and chest and a start one would work
well but you do want a straight one offer it up to the light and I can see
light on the very fore part of the of the nose of the plane so I’ve got a
little belly here right behind the mouth can you see this rocking so you can hear
it rocking if you can’t see it so what I’m going to do is I’m going to just
take a plane I can’t really tell right now which way the grain is running that
means the grain could be coming up this direction or it could be coming up this
way so I’m going to set up just a plain Jane stanley a very very plain stanley
here and I’m just going to offer it to the surface of the wood and I can feel a
little bit of resistance there so I’m going to back the iron off till I’m
barely taking now so you can see here you see how that plane rocks so that
means I’ve got a high point right and that’s where it was taking the shaving
up I was getting no shaving here and I was getting a shaving right here behind
the mouth so I’m showing you here that you can actually flatten this sole to a
tolerable level just by using a number four stanley plane it feels like I’m
going with the grain so I’m going to go here just take
off you see that one shaving went right there
the shaving went in here and out here so let me put some lines on here for me as
much as for you right along here which we’re aiming at getting this somewhere
flat so we’re retching the flame the main
body of the plane register here now you could use a longer plane so I’ve got
hollow here just a slight hollow so I have a window
over there and I can see that this is hollow right in the very middle on the
other side of here I can see hollow in there too so now
it’s hollow along the length too take a bit more I’m trying not to take too big
of a bite at this stage because I’m trying to use the sole of the plane to
register against now you can see definitely clearly can you see what I
did here I’ve got this big horseshoe in here I’ve got this wide area of the
mouth in front of the mouth that’s coming down and here it’s all the way up
here so there’s a little bit of twist in there which I want to make sure I don’t
have so I know the plane this soul plane is already flat because I flattened it
so I’m still going to stay with this registration on here so I’m taking down
the high spots taking off very thin thousands of an inch these are very
thin shavings I could take a little bit more or even more and I keep going on
the high spots working all across the width of the plane like this because I
want this close to dead flat the last thing I want you to do is the same as I
would with a bench plane as you the last thing I want you to do is
to get obsessive about flattening your plane it’s an obsession and that I don’t
really find too useful so I keep going with these micro shavings very thin
shavings like this now let me see if I can show you a little bit more clearly
you can see we’re extending on either side of the mouth and there’s my
straight edge so it’s taking me nice and flat on either side of the mouth and all
the way back to here now I have a good flat but I’ve got a hollow in here less
problematic but I’m going to go all the way down so you keep taking it down now
what about using a longer plane if you’ve got one you could use it I’m not
saying you should use it I’m backing the iron off so I don’t take too big of a
shaving or even any shaving in this case take up the slack turn it quarter of a
turn keep keep turning just till you see I’m getting a very thin shaving right in
the middle so you can use the longer plane as long as you’re sure it’s flat
fairly close to flat how flat is flat well now what I’m getting very close to
a total length I’m taking the twister obviously there was a twist in this sole
which wasn’t very bad I’m eyeballing down here it’s amazing how accurate your eyes
are going to be back in the vise and I can already feel this plane is
near to where I want it to be lots of planes are going to be a bit like this
one can you see on here you can certainly flatten a wooden plane
much more easily than you can a metal one so you can see shine here shine here
and then you can see this slight hollow in the middle here that’s because this
was used on the edges of boards very much for a long time so that was used for
edging boards this plane was too a little bit so I’m close to that finish level and I’m going to stop there because I’m
convinced that I am now dead flat along this edge that’s going to be close
enough for 99% of any woodworking that you care to do with a jack plane that’s
all you need coat of oil linseed oil on here and
you’re ready to go that’s all I would do maybe some just some furniture polish
some beeswax whatever you want to use just to get this shiny and smooth reduce the friction but this is going to glide across the surface of any wood now
and it’s ready for that I might take a quick shaving off the two corners here
just to ease the edge so it’s not fractured we’re ready to work on the
plane iron so let’s go ahead and take a look at that the wedge was fitting
nicely to the back of the plane iron and so the cap iron so let’s take a look
inside here now I love the way these are made can you see they
make a brass dome usually goes through the plate so we’re going to look at a
couple of areas here going to focus on this one this is how it came to me I
haven’t done anything to this very typical this has a convex camber this is what hit me many years ago is that most plane irons that came in to me did not have a concave they had a convex camber and that was
how most planes were sharpened through the centuries so didn’t mean they didn’t
grind them on a sandstone grind wheel two feet in diameter they did but it
didn’t mean they were aiming for a hollow grind necessarily just aiming to
get off this part where it tends to get thick is right here so they wanted to
keep this around 30 degrees and then take the heel off a little bit more so
we’re going to focus on this but the other face we’re going to focus on I’m
surprised look at this this face is really pretty good and that’s about as
far as most craftsmen when I would say that’s probably somewhere around 400
grit probably not much more than that and that a 400 grit sharpening to a 400
grit will take off very nice shavings you don’t really have to go more but
we’re going to look at that inside here I’m looking at this eye and I’m looking
I have to get this edge to make to this edge as tightly as I can otherwise
the shaving goes under the fore part of the cap iron and wedges in the plane and
that’s what causes a lot of planes to jam sometimes the wedge on top of this
if these wings here go slightly above that 4-part they will cause a wedging of
the shavings in there too so we have to look at those different areas but we’re
going to get this plane iron working now so we’re going to go to a couple of
things first I’m going to go to a coarse grit of 250 first of all using diamonds like this so I’m just using diamond
plates these are dead flat but I’m not worried about dead flat on this because
I’m just working on the bevel I’ve got a couple of nicks in this edge that I need
to get out and also need to establish the bevel at around 30 degrees why
do I say around 30 degrees because you could be 35 and the plane will work just
fine as long as you’re well above the 45 degree bed angle so when you’re
in the plane the bevel isn’t riding the the wood as you plane if it was
somewhere around here you can see the iron would be riding the bed of the wood
and it wouldn’t work very well so somewhere around 45 is what the bed
angle in as long as we’re around 30 to 35 or 28 it doesn’t matter 25 27 35
somewhere in there is plenty good enough for what we’re doing so we’re going to
hold this in my usual method which means free hand so I’m getting my bevel down
and I’m working on the heel of this so I have actually got a gap here I got a
pretty good size gap probably two three mil gap in there so I’m working on the
heel to keep the heel out of the way now I’m working towards the fore part where
the bevel meets the back I’m keeping it flat along the edge I’m not trying to
crown this I don’t need a crown on here sometimes I might put a crown on
I’ve actually got a burr on the back here across the whole of it which means
that I have got down right to the very edge of the bevel on
these outside wings here these are the left square for some reason that’s
unusual most of the crafts when I’ve dealt with want to take these outside
corners off if you’re planning a wide board you don’t want to leave a step
there you want to move into it so I’m lifting up here like this take 20-30
strokes and then while I’m still raised up after 30 strokes I start to drop down
drop down drop down to the surface and then I lift up the other side can you
see where I am there that’s the train going we’ve got trains outside wait till the
train moves out the station drop drop drop drop drop drop drop and we’ve got a
wing on each side just like that can you see there so that’s what I want so I’ve
got burr all the way along this edge now so I’m going to go to a different series
of plates now like this these are just a series you could use abrasive paper if
you if you’re stuck for diamonds go to abrasive paper squirt this is just
window cleaner this is an auto glass cleaner it works perfectly on these
plates lifting lifting dropping down and going to this plate here this is around
six to eight hundred grit and you could stop there and this plane will cut if
you want to you could just stop there and you’ll be perfectly happy with the
shaving you get so I’m dropping all the way to the heel rather than just doing
the bevel I keep in this maintenance mode to make sure I’m not making the
cutting edge too thick can you see in there now so it’s starting to polish out
how long it doesn’t it doesn’t have to look pretty
going on the last grit here this is 1200 and it’s a well-worn 1200 there so it
could be a lot finer than that drop your heel make sure you take at least as many
strokes on the heel as you do on the main body now I’ve got a burr on this so
I’m going to flip over I’m going to go on this plate here which is fairly
coarse and I’m just going to make a couple of passes on here to help me
determine where 10 passes what I’ve got can you see right in the middle here is
the belly so I’ve got a slight belly it’s not really slice it’s going to take
some working out so I’m going to go to that course of stone now to take out
some of that belly because if I don’t take that out I don’t have a flat
surface and once you’ve done this you never have to do it again it’s a
one-shot deal so you may as well do it now drop it on the plate back and forth and if this takes half an
hour you’ll have the exercise on your upper body done you don’t need to go to
the gym and if it takes an ally it’s worth it once you’ve done it you’ve got
it it’s done for life so you can see this is not going to take very long can
you see now we’ve increased about three times what we had a few minutes ago so
we’re going to keep going on that keeping it flat
keep working back and forth across the surface of the plate spread your fingers
I’ve got my thumb my two fingers either side of the middle spread your fingers
this feels pretty good steel I must say if you can feel the hardness of steel
which I think I can now after these long years of working with wood so I’m going
to finish this out and then I’ll show you where I am when I’ve got this down
to depth so well now I’ve got this down across the full width of the blade on
the course 250 so I’m happy you know a scratch mark do you see some scratch
marks where in the middle there they don’t matter they don’t matter one drop
and actually it wouldn’t need to be this wide either you only have to have it
maybe if sometimes the plane blade is hollow you’d end up with a horseshoe in
here that shape and ellipse or something like that but this works perfectly so
I’ve got down you can see I’ve not quite got to this outside edge well I don’t
actually need to because I could lift up on that or I could is this is where it’s
critical along this edge here between the two wings is critical what is that
one is that training leaf so I’m going to my finer grits here so I’ve got this
well 1 250 here so I’m going to use that across here again so I’m taking out the
striations of left with that very coarse grit that
50 newer grit and I’m going on here take a look at the other side and I’m
starting to see a shine in there it’s coming where I want it to be I’m going
to this one here there’s a bit more awkward because I’m restricted here but
I can go in here and work this as well take advantage of this stone stick to
the surface there and now I’m going to can you see I’ve get I’m starting to get
a shine right around the edge there very happy so on this one my final great
this is 1200 but it’s a worn 1200 and first this type of plane I don’t need
anything finer than this but I will be taking it to a final level so we did the
bevel up to this level as well so it’s good to get the to equal rather than
doing the other side at 250 and this one to 1200 the bevel to 1200 I would only
really have a compromise between the two grit levels of sharpness so here this is
really polishing this I can feel it’s not taking too much off so it’s
polishing it’s turning black so I know I am removing some and there you start to
see the shine you can all see your face it’s got a slight hollow right in the
midsection there I don’t think I would worry too much about that just go back
on press hard on the surface keep it flat yeah so I’ve got flight back bevel
on there but I’m perfectly happy that this edge is actually now sharp of the
burr is on this side so I have to get rid of those
pull out a strop and I can work on the bevel here with this drop just charge
this with some chromium oxide like this charge it this is just a piece of
leather glue to a block of wood it’s just any kind of leather with the rough
side up a Mollison and now I’m going to pull on here the very very least 30
times so the burr that was there is now gone to this other side so it’s already
moving that steel I’m getting down to the cutting edge so golf about 30 to 40
times keeping all my upper body above right down to the cutting edge both
hangs the heel of my hand is pressing down my right hand is purely guiding it
really then I lift up the wings to get those a little bit not too much look what we got in the very short space
of time we’ve got a polish on the edge here now so I just have this interface
now I don’t know you can get in this close you can just see the burr is
starting to peel away here and that means that we’ve got right down to the
very very cutting edge when I come on this other face on the flat face here
I’m not going to go on here I’m going to go to just a regular piece of wood that
I’ve already flattened previously and it did this doesn’t have to be dead flat
just get it as flat as you can get it and charge the wood itself with chromium
oxide like this and this is going to conclude the flattening of this face and
you’ll never have to do this again so Paul can you see it’s turning black
so he’s getting this face nice and smooth and polished so I’m going to go
30 I’m keeping it dead flat I let it register and pull it that dead flat
position pull see it’s going black that’s the steel coming off and that
gets me where I want to be with this cutting edge here you see that no we’ve
got a sharp edge and the flat face is full is certainly flat enough for
everything I want now this is ready to go in the plane but one area I want to
focus on a little bit make sure I register this with you when you’re
loading this blade you don’t spin it around too soon like here because you’ll
catch the edge of your cutting edge go past the full part of the cap iron and
bring it down to position this way and about two millimeters two and a half
millimeters from the edge anywhere between 1/32 and even as much as an
eighth will work for you cinch it tight and then take a look see if there’s any
visible gaps along this edge I can see a gap right on here right in this corner
you may not be able to see but I can assure you it’s there so I’m going to
take this out I’m going to just go to coarse plate and I’m going to just move
this out of the way I think I’m going to rub this along can you see
this does have a little bit of shine on this edge here but I don’t know if
that’s dead flat so when I rub it along the surface of this diamond plate here
just one rub will tell me whether it’s flat or not so I keep this down on the
plate here and just push like that and you can see I hope right in the
midsection there there’s a hollow here yeah it’s just slight you might know
it’s not as clear to you as it is to me so I just take another couple of quick
rubs on here like that and now I’ve got the whole of this edge all the way from
one side to the other you can see it’s a broad band of light on there and that’s
what I’m looking for to make sure I’ve got to this edge here this edge is
actually in pretty good shape so I could just take this onto the strop here just
to polish this out a little bit it’s going to be fairly smooth because it’s
had 200 years of shavings coming through that mouth maybe so I’m just polishing
this edge just to get it so there’s no friction on that and I probably won’t do
any more to this I might want to expose the name of the maker this is just a
brass brush here so you can see this is a nice Obi and I thought we had a very
good reputation for making ions of all kinds long long-standing reputation for
making ions on planes so we reload this I’m not going to clean up this rooster
there’s not much rust on it it’s just very superficial and there’s not much on
here this is the same there’s another I saw B logo on there nice clear name
should be proud of their name it should be super proud I wish they were still
here today they could be very proud of what their forefathers their forebears
did in making ions for a population for so long a period so here can you see
they’re just about so you don’t sweat this because it will vary from person to
person lazily shoot for about a thirty second to a sixteenth but I vary it
sometimes I’m working on really fine work I’ll have it closer to the edge if
I’m hogging off a lot I’ll move it away from the edge just to make sure the
throat has clearance and now we’re going to load this in the plane get rid of
some of this excess here and we’re going to load this in the plane for the first
time since it’s been restored here we just drop this in like this now this
hasn’t been in and out of the plane for a long time so can you see inside this
wedge is hitting in fact if I go onto this one maybe you can see even better
this wedge has a gap at the top can you see the gap here but at the bottom it’s
already tight but that’s because the wedge is flexing and the wedge is often
flexed on the back of the cap iron because that has a little bulb in there
so it’s hitting that first so what I’m going to do is just turn this upside
down I’m going to just check this plane iron is flush with the sole so I can
tighten this with I’m going to use this nylon hammer so I keep going can you see
it’s closing in on where it was originally registered yeah solid ouch
it’s not going any further I can hit it all I want so I turn over now and I just
use the fingertip test to see how much I’m patootie then I’m going to look down
here and let me see if I can offer this so you can see the plane iron is
actually protruding that’s going to be a not to hog off with an initial stroke so
I’m going to actually back the iron off a little bit and what how I do that is I
strike either here or here and then I’m going to look down now I think you can
see the iron is not protruding at all what you can see there is the gap so
you’re looking right along the very soul face is not protruding what you see is a
black line between the fore part and the after part of the plain iron and that’s
the inside of the throat so I tighten this wedge up again because it loosened
it there now it’s tight I can tell by the sound and now I’m going to go to a
metal hammer just a small metal hammer you don’t need a big one and I’m going
to take a piece of wood like this put it in the vise this is where test to make
sure I’ve got no I I do have an iron coming through the
brush so when I tighten the wedge it sent the iron out so I’m getting
Zig shaving on this side and if then shaving on this side so what I’m going
to do is I went you can see this is the hammer mark that sets the depth hitting
on the side is going to set it parallel to the sole of the face I’m going to
take a shaving again now I’m getting a thinner shaving and
I’m getting still pretty close to thickness on that side I still have a
slight gap can you see here I’m looking in here I have a slight gap in there so
I’ve got a slight gap in there so I’m I’ve got plenty of room to tap this on
the side again and that’s why these angle these sides are angled slightly so
I’m going to back the iron off a bit here because I’m still too thick that
second tap was to tighten the wedge again so I’m going to slide shaving here
shaving on the other side they sound the same so you can hear I’m getting no
shaving here down there for now I’ve got shaving coming off this plane
that are just stunning to set it a little bit less bit less still unless
still tightening here that could reset your wedge a little so I’m perfectly
happy with my plane now if I want to take less I tap tighten keep going you want to use this one it’s
going to be plain and last a lot longer I don’t think they had an island at the
time these planes were made so now I’ve got nothing so I go to the metal one I
know I’m parallel to the surface so this is my superfine level now I’m getting
these beautiful flaky whiskey shavings and this plane is ready to go see what
we get on these wider surface now so I’m not getting any surface now why is that
is it because this is slightly hollow in the middle it could be so I’m going to
go a little deeper in the center I’m tapping the iron and this plane is
giving me exactly what I want is full sized shavings the surface is pristine
and this plane really works perfectly for me now good that’s what I wanted
some furs and green jumpers here keep going keep going keep going you can do
round Elvis four ball houses I’m good to go
jumper on the end grain now here this is what you want to do is get used to
setting it so if I take a Shump around here but yes it’s working but I want a
deep chamfer get used to tapping now I’m getting a thick shaving
so I’ve got shampoo on here perfect and now I go back to my shallow shaving if I
want to round over on here just bring it bring it bring it
all the way around on to the top there’s your windowsill there’s your nosing for
your stairs this plane works well

100 thoughts on “Preparing a Wooden Jack Plane | Paul Sellers”

  1. Thank you so much for this, I now know how to go about restoring an old wooden plane I just got 👍🏻

  2. It is very obvious to me you have a passion for your profession. In addition, you have a special gift that is rare in an instructor. Your hands going over the wood and tools as if they were part of your being. I make these observations after viewing and hearing the way you provide us with your instructions. I salute you Mr. Sellers and wish you the best in your endeavors.

  3. Thank you Paul. I learned most of my knowledge from you.
    You are planing the sole from back to front, so I guess this is the grain direction. Would it be better if the grain direction was opposite, i.e. front to back, for using the plain?

  4. I am not sure what you meant by "spontaneous combustion". I use BOILED LINSEED OILoften in my shop, and keep a whole gallon of it for various uses; is there a real danger of my gallon can exploding? What did you mean by "soak it in water"? I hope you meant soak THE RAG IN WATER.

  5. Hi Paul, Awesome Video!! Quick question-Could I use a jointer to flatten the base if I take a very thin pass?

  6. I love your explanation(s) multiple times you would go a step further to explain the same subject or issue.  I have great respect for your work.  A true pleasure to watch you work and teach.  Many thanks and hat tip to a master craftsman. 😉  Your life's work makes you the man…

  7. This is great! I inherited three wooden planes and had no idea how to prepare/set them. Almost bought an expensive one made of metal. Thanks for that video, Mr. Sellers!

  8. I need to replace the wooden wedge because it was lost. Do you have a video on making them or any patterns you can share?

  9. I live in the Czech republic; new wooden planes of all kinds are still sold in hardware stores, along with spare blades to suit. Metal body planes are available, of course, but are not so commonly seen, as they are much more expensive. Czechs tend to be very pragmatic: if you can get a wooden smoothing plane for 250Kc and it works, why pay 4000+ for a fancy metal one?

  10. "don't obsess about plane sole flatness" ho boy i remember when I bought my second plane a No.7 and knew i had to flatten the sole. went with my strait edge and test every surface,wall , floor , furniture , glass , window just about everything except the roof to find a surface to grind but nothing was flat enough and it drive me insane . Not only that but the rulers, levels and strait edge i was using were giving me different result so i was worried to find a flat surface to flatten my strait edge to find a flat surface to flatten my plane to flatten wood ! Did not sleep well that night and don't get me started on squareness of squares!

  11. As always thank you Paul. I always come away after one of your videos feeling that I have gained knowledge and anxious to apply it.

  12. Excellent as always…Hey don't knock old trains and clocks……They are like tools, couldn't live without them……

  13. I bought one of these and tuned it as per your instruction and it works like a knife through butter.the secret is GENTLY for adjustment .My one has a cast ,tapered Ward iron.made in England..just great.Only difference is that mine has a strike button on the front top.For a large plane it is really light and a pleasure to use.

  14. I've got some kind of stuff to put on my strop, but what it is called, I don't know; its kind of gray; other is whitish; other is reddish. It all works, but none will color wood.

  15. Hi, I'm just starting in woodworking and I love Paul's videos, so instrctional!
    Question: How do you plane the sole if this is the only plane I have?

  16. This has given me the confidence to bring my wife's grandfathers identical plane back in to use, he was a ship wright during WW1, it now works beautifully …thanks

  17. I've got the same large jack plane, also with the two notched corners at the front end. Awesome piece of kit; I love old wood planes.

  18. Why pay $105 for the Woodcraft kit when you can buy these old planes @ flee markets for $5 – $10.. You can also find great metal Stanley/Bailey pattern planes for $15 – $20 all day long..
    Here in the US you hardly ever see an I Sorby but are very common in the UK/Europe..
    Another great video Paul, Watch it all or you'll miss the small details that make/break the setup & use of these great old planes.

  19. Excellent video. I recently bought my first wooden plane (similar to the one in video) – so very useful.
    Good point about being able to grind convex bevels on a grinding wheel (@ 18:00-ish). There is an assumption that one would use a fixed sharpening-jig or hold the tool in a fix position, which would indeed usually produce a hollow/concave bevel – however, when sharpening free-hand, you can move the blade around to achieve whatever profile you want.

  20. That's great Paul, I have just picked up a plane pair about the same size as you have in the vid. Have (I think) sorted them out, but have had a hell of a job setting the irons. THANK YOU. Solved the problem.

  21. Thanks years ago mom bought me a several wooden planes I'm not sure why since I'm an electrician by trade, and grandpa gave up on me cutting a board straight without a miter box, but the time has come for me to straiten out a door frame that is proud of the exterior siding on one side, so out comes the plane which of course needs sharpening!

  22. Tip….for a high end and durable finish only use stainless steel or brass wool for wood restoration if you can get it and afford it, because normal steel wool can leave rust spots or stains in the long run. For marine purposes they only use brass wool for that reason. When normal steel wool is applied small portions of the steel wool might break of and enter the wood as tiny splinters, in the end it might rust and appear as dark spots or even stains in the wood. So if you don't want that to happen in the long run long after you are gone or even earlier only use brass or stainless steel wool for wood restoration if you want to have and maintain a high end finish. Especially for marine purposes.

  23. For making metal surfaces perfectly and absolutely 100% flat watch Keith Rucker with on youtube with Richard King hand scraping class. Metal surfaces are hand scraped with special tools and a granite calibrated flat stone in order to make it perfectly flat. And I really mean perfectly! Awesome channel.

  24. Thanks .. nice video, I just inherited a 24" Erik Anton Berg and I will follow your lead and try to restore.
    I really like your show … made me smile 🙂

  25. What kind of wood was used for the plane body? I am thinking that it is European Red Beech, or perhaps a fruit wood like pear.

  26. Could you possibly do a video on using a Stanley type 45 plane. They are so complicated in their set-up that most people, myself included, don't use them when they should be fully utilized. Thanks.

  27. Great to see this Paul.

    I frequent a salvage yard where there's hundreds of wooden planes like this of all sizes, some giant ones even. So many that I'm tripping over them.

    I've never known what to look for or how to get one to working order but now I do, thanks.

  28. mr. paul could tell us how the body of the plane is and how wide the irons are i have seen a bunch of your videos i like your and like the way you explain things i have been wanting to try to build my own wood planes but realy do not know how to get started, iwould to build a large jointer plane could you give me an idea on how to get started thanks very much, lawrence ,from the united states ,any help would be very appraiotated

  29. Interesting to see Paul (2014) using the soft, grey, PVC striking face of his Thor/Thorex hammer, rather than the harder, white (extra hard yellow), nylon striking face, that he uses on chisels. On his blog he writes (2016) of using the white striking face:

  30. +1, You have great movies about woodworking, especially You are writer, however I heard that some special kind of Japan hand planes must be hollow around the knife

  31. One thing I didn't get is that planes have in feed and out feed at same hight but the blade cuts lower, so you will have a gap under the plane anyways, no need to make them perfect flat bottom

  32. Paul I learn a lot from your videos, I keep running from the PC to the shop to try the bits I learn from you, keep the good work going.Thanks.

  33. Thanks so much for this video, and all of your others. I've been a member of your WWMC site in the past, and once I get financial things in order I plan to rejoin. Thanks so much. I have a plane very similar to this that I picked up on a trip to the eastern United States. The sole and iron need some serious work, and I'm so pleased you have a video one restoring these great old planes. You make a big difference for me and my love of woodworking, as well as so many others.

    Thank you sir.

  34. Thank you sir for sharing your videos ; I found a exactly plane on a flea market and I’m trying to watch this video over and over how to restore my plane , the only problem I have is this plane don’t have a handle but hopefully I can make one 🙂

  35. Paul. Thank you very much! I have one of these long wooden planes. Unfortunately it has a broken wedge and no chipper or blade. Could you please tell me what to specifically look for regarding the wedge, blade and chipper for the long wooden plane (which I believe is exactly as you demonstrated)? Thank you!

  36. Paul, I bought a plane that I can use to flatten the sole of my long wooden plane (same as you worked on in this video).
    It may sound weird, but it’s exciting to watch the results of your restorations to see how well it cuts!

  37. So I bought a hundred years old jointer plane at the flea market yesterday for 4 euros. And I said to myself : Paul is gonna tell me what to do with it. I'm very satisfied watching this.

  38. Best video I've seen on using older wooden plans. I learned a ton off this video. Thanks.

  39. i just bought one of these about a week ago to hang on a shelf in my shop after whatching this i think ill try to get it working it looks exactly the same as the one you just did i got it for 10 bucks at a sale

  40. To clean old wooden tools, use a mixture of linseed oil, medical turpentine and vinegar. Scrub with steel wool and clean with a rag. It will remove all the gunk without damage to the wood.

  41. I have 5 of these from a from a strange job with an almost upright iron to a jointer that I am going to be fixing over the next couple of weeks.

  42. I just picked up a 160 year old block plane for just £8 and I needed to know how to restore it. Awesome video, thanks!

  43. Excellent video!
    I just bought myself a wooden jack plane from a flee market. It's an old plane from an old school and it looked like it had never been used! Sometimes you can come across them because there are times that schools here have auctions and sell off old stuff before a renovation and such. The price was 3€ (2.7£ or 3.4$). I just polished the blade and it took hairs off my arm. Really glad I found this video, because now I know how I can finish checking the plane up!
    Thank you!

  44. Well, I'm sat here going thru my collection of Wooden planes at 12.30 am checking for square on the soles holding them to the kitchen light! Thanks LOL great video.

  45. Paul, this might be the best video I've seen to date on Planes. Thank you for taking the time. Well done!
    I wonder if you could tell me if you made the frame for the three stones? And also, what grit each of them are? I heard 1200 on the finest. Thanks again

  46. I was wondering if you would be able to help me identify a plane? It has stamped markings but unable to find a makers mark.

  47. Today I noticed an old jointer plane on top of a beam in my mother’s house. I’d seen it many times before but honestly didn’t really appreciate what it was. Today I knew exactly what it is and brought it home. I also knew that I could find out how to fix it up and tune it from one of your wonderful videos.

    Thank you sir!

  48. Just goes to prove, you don't need a $300. plane to do woodworking. I'm sure that plane can help you do world-class furniture, for sure. Thanks, again, for another great video.

  49. I really like the feel of wood planes, the way it glides on the surface of the wood, I try to use mine as much as possible, but it is so much easier with bailey pattern planes because of the adjuster mechanism. What is your opinion on transitional planes?

  50. Holy mother of God. This video was as enjoyable as anything I can imagine. What a gift. My god! I'm gonna go home and bring my 200 year old jack plane back to life! Thank you Paul. Love you man.

  51. The reason that Stanley Jack is hollow is to do with the surface grinding process not it's subsequent use. The casting was rushed through without annealing or weathering to surface grinding and has moved afterwards. 100% of later Stanley/Record etc planes will be hollow both lengthways and side to side, often quite dramatically.

  52. My plane is identical but has a round strike button on the top at the front and a WARD tapered cast steel iron . It takes whisper thin shavings or chunks and is just fabulous . i do not know why they went out of style . Once you adjust one ,tip tap, tip tap,it becomes second nature.

  53. Found one of these wood Jack planes at a thrift store, Sole is very flat but has a chip out of a front corner. Would you [woodworking community] leave the hollow or fill with a resin/ epoxy? Thanks.

  54. Excellent video Paul, thank you for this. I just picked up a 40+ year old E.C.E. Primus Reform Smoothing Plane that had never been sharpened properly. Your instruction gave me great confidence to fine tune this gorgeous plane.

  55. Ahha!!! Any gap between the cutter and cap iron can trap wood shavings. Thus check for gaps when assembled. 40 years and I never knew that trick. Thanx Paul!

  56. Watching your videos is very reminiscent of my old college instructor when i was doing my apprenticeship, I could watch you for hours. One comment though, i was taught to rest my plane on its side, am i being a bit pedantic because i notice that you put your planes down with the blade downwards

  57. I am a violin maker and use a lot of wooden planes. Your discussion is bang on. One tip is to put the iron and wegde into the plane before you flatten the sole, obviously retracted. That way you compensate for any bending of the plane body caused by the wedge tension. I plane my planes frequently. Unlike iron planes, it's easy to keep them dead flat.

  58. I bought a new, cheap wooden plane for 20 dollars. With the help of this video i was taking thin shavings after 10 minutes of sharpening, fiddling with it and adjusting the blade. I hope you know how helpfull those videos are. Thank you for making them! They are appreciated.

  59. AMEN to keeping up with the modern plane. I really love working with  the  old Wooden plane. Do you know and will you share with us the wood which was shaped like snake teeth to hold the iron holding  plate. More prevalent on later wood. Did thy make the sides out of bamboo extensions? Don Jackson Remington Magnum

  60. Important Video:) when talking about planes with carpentry colleagues here in Germany they no one really heard of those metal planes by veritas or what not. Most people here only know those wooden planes. Got a few for free and looking forward to restoring them

  61. I just bought a set of four of these planes on ebay for about $65. I'm pretty excited to get to us these and this video's definitely going to help. Thanks Paul.

  62. Thank you, Sir. I was about to go to a local shop for fairing the sole of my jack plane (and it is very bowed). I came into ownership of the old wooden planes that belonged to my great-grandfather, and I am planning to restore and use them; I also do not have any alternatives except for a Stanley No.4 1/2

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